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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small shop achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary achievement.